Adventures in Antigua and Barbuda

Moving on from Guadeloupe, we continued north to Antigua and Barbuda.

Sailing almost 50nm from Deshaies to Jolly Harbour, most of the passage was between the islands. This gave us winds of Force 5 (17 -21 knots), gusting Force 6 (22 -27 knots) and made for a brisk sail with Escapade reaching speeds of over 8 knots. At times, it was an uncomfortable trip with swell of 1.5m at 6 second intervals and squalls bringing heavy rain and sudden changes in wind speed and direction. However, we are getting much better at predicting these changes and having the sails set to be prepared for them.

After 9 hours of sailing, we arrived safely in Jolly Harbour – a smart marina and resort with a safe anchorage in the outside bay. Here we had a few days to check in, clean the boat and re-provision. This was especially important, as, while in Antigua, our son, James, came to join us for two weeks. With strict instructions not to plan anything ‘educational’, the itinerary was full of sailing, snorkelling, diving and eating.

James’ introduction to the Caribbean was rum punch and burger at Sandra’s Beach Bar. Toes in the sand, the sun going down, stars appearing and bats flying overhead….only the midges spoilt the atmosphere of his first night.

Welcome to Jolly Harbour

Like riding a bike...

With a busy schedule, we headed north, stopping overnight at Deep Bay. A pretty place, but busy with tourists and jet skis. It was a great place for us to do a shallow wreck dive to remind James how to use his gear.

Next on the itinerary was a day sail to Barbuda. This was only just under 30nm, but was open water. As usual, this meant stronger winds of Force 5 (17 -21 knots) gusting Force 6 (22 -27 knots). We had three reefs in both the main and genoa, but were still reaching speeds of over 7 knots. The crossing tested out James’ sealegs – he hadn’t quite got them yet and was glad to reach Barbuda!

Land ahoy!

Barbuda was so beautiful – with crystal clear water and shimmering white sand, the beaches were the best so far. Our days here were spent in and around the water, snorkelling and fish spotting; rounded off our with beach BBQs and several rums punches at Shack a Kai’s Bar.

Beachside gathering

Kai's kitchen

Ready to eat

All too soon, we needed to return to Antigua. This time we set a course for Green Island – a peaceful spot on the south east corner of Antigua . Although the diving was disappointing, the snorkelling yielded turtles and stingrays.

Pillars of Hercules

Continuing around the island to the south coast, the next stops were English and Falmouth Harbours. These showed us a different side to Antigua. They were much busier and full of luxurious super yachts and their crews. Avoiding the marinas, we joined the other ‘normal’ boats who were anchored in Falmouth Bay. An excellent base, for more snorkelling and a few dives, around the Pillars of Hercules. We also explored inland a little, by ziplining in the Antiguan rainforest!

James’s trip was coming to a close, but we were still keen for him to experience the Caribbean vibe. Before leaving Falmouth, we headed up to Shirley Heights – an excellent vantage point with a sweeping view over English Harbour. Where better to watch the sun go down, accompanied by BBQ and steel ban – oh Caribbean life!