Heading south - discovering Dominica

Our base in Dominica was Portsmouth, at the north west corner of the island. Set in the large sweeping Prince Rupert Bay, there was plenty of room to anchor with reasonable holding. It was an excellent base for exploring our new location.

Portsmouth is also home to PAYS (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services). This organisation was formed by the local guides who work together to welcome visiting boats. Upon arrival, we were met by PAYS member, Martin Carriere with flowers and local fruits. Martin is also the Ocean Cruising Club’s Port Officer here. Born and bred in Dominica, he was the perfect person to help us discover this beautiful island, its flora and fauna.

As well as having an impressive coast line, Dominica is home to nine volcanoes. They give the island its rugged interior and also numerous natural sulphur springs. Retracing our route along the west coast, we had a quick stop at one of them, Bubble Beach Spa. Unfortunately, this was not as glamourous as it sounds. At the water’s edge, a low makeshift wall of rocks formed a shallow pool. Inside the pool, tiny bubbles stream up through the sand making the water almost too hot to walk in. We didn’t stay long!

Our final stop for the day was at the majestic Trafalgar Falls. These impressive twin falls (Mama at 40m and Papa at 85m) cascade vertically into the pools below. Not content with the view from afar, we scrambled across the boulders to bathe in the pools below the falls. At Papa, we even managed to find a hot water spring to ‘shower’ in.

Having enjoyed the trip south, we were keen for Martin to show us the northern end of the island.

First port of call was Chaudiere Pool. A rough road made its way along the ridge with the land falling away either side and led to a track heading for the river. A short hike through the forest was rewarded by a refreshing dip in the natural pool carved out of the rock.

Next stop was the fascinating landscape of Red Rocks. Martin explained that the lava flows which had created the headlands were made of iron rich basalt. Over time, being exposed to the hot sun and sea water, this had oxidised turning the rocks an amazing rusty colour. Truly a martian landscape.

No tour of the north of Dominica would be complete without a visit to the Pointe Baptiste Chocolate Factory, home to Dominica’s first homegrown chocolate. The factory is a very, very small, family business run by Alan Napier on the private estate founded by his grandparents.

Alan himself was on hand to show us around and talk us through the chocolate making process.  Alan explained that the cacao is harvested from the estate and also from local farmers. The beans are fermented in wooden boxes and then left out in the sun to dry. Once dry, the beans are roasted. They are then crushed and the outer shell is separated from the cocao nibs. The nibs are melted and mixed with other flavourings. Finally, the chocolate is tempered and made into bars. All in a building not much bigger than a small house!

Throughout both of the trips, Martin was keen to show us the wealth of local fruit, vegetables and spices on route. He was so knowledgable, explaining their multiple uses in everyday life and our heads were bursting with information by the end of the tours.