Friday 14th October 2022, was the day that we finally left Grenada. The sun was shining and the wind was blowing Force 4 (11-16 knots). The sea was calm with very little swell and it was a perfect sail for the first leg of our journey.
PredictWind was telling us that the winds would be similar to this for our passage and it should take us 3.5/4 days. As this would get us into Bonaire a few days earlier than our marina booking, we decided to take a quick 10nm sail up to Chatham Bay in Union Island. This is in St Vincent and the Grenadines, so officially we should have checked in. However, SVG allows boats to overnight at anchor on route to somewhere else. It was a lovely choice – a pleasant snorkel, a sunset and a good night’s sleep before setting off the next day.
Saturday 15th October saw another blue sky with winds of 7/8knots, so off we went, heading north west to make the most of the easterly wind and north westerly current. We managed a steady sail of 5 knots under the genoa and a prevented main.
By 6pm, we had made good progress and, as the sun set, we had our final glimpses of land. Ahead of us lay the ocean and Bonaire.
The first night at sea after a while at anchor is always challenging. We need time to get used to the motion of the boat and also adapt our time clocks to our night watch pattern. This passage was no exception. The wind and swell direction meant a rolly night with the sails banging, so neither of us got much sleep.
Sunday 16th, our second day, gave us very light winds – Force 2 (4-6 knots). This led to a day of motoring, but did enable us to catch up on our sleep.
The day was not without excitement though as, in the early afternoon, Martin caught a fish – a beautiful 3.5kg (85cm) Mahi Mahi. Within 30 minutes of landing it, Martin had filleted enough fish to make us several meals on passage. Very tasty.
As the sunset and we prepared the sails for our night sailing, we were joined by three ‘hitchhikers’. A small bird flew with us for several of the twilight hours, trying out different perches around the boat, before finally settling on the guard wires for the night. Once he was settled, another two joined us. All three stayed until first light, before continuing their journeys under their own steam.
Day 3 (Monday 17th) saw the winds back up to Force 3 (7-10 knots) and more 5 knot sailing with genoa and prevented main. Monday also saw us reach our half way point to Bonaire. How time flies!
By this stage in the passage, we had settled comfortably into our night watches. Before setting sail on Escapade, night watches were something that I had been nervous about, especially as I am not keen on the dark. It has quickly become one of my favourite times of the day. If the sky is clear and the sea is calm, it is amazing to observe the millions of stars in the sky, including the Milky Way. There are also lights in the water. There are microscopic creatures that create bioluminescence which causes the water to sparkle as much as the night sky. The wonders of the universe are humbling to see.
Tuesday 18th was day 4 and the wind picked up to Force 4 (11-16 knots), knocking our speed up to over 6 knots. We were positively racing along! It was also a busy day for sail changes, as we needed to gybe several times to begin heading south west to Bonaire.
During passages I like to observe the sea and sky around me and on this passage I focused more on the changing sky. I have never really studied the variety of clouds or understood what they tell us. It was fascinating to study them. This has become another thing on my Google list for when we arrive within internet signal again.
Just before dawn on Wednesday 19th, we saw the glow of lights on the horizon and, once the sun came up, we caught glimpse of Bonaire. The wind blew steadily at Force 4 (11-16 knots) and we finished our passage with a pleasant sail along the west coast of the island. Our arrival was marked by a pod of dolphins escourting us. What a welcome!
Finally, we arrived and moored at Harbour Village Marina. Our log told us that we had travelled 500nm in 4 days and 2 hours. Time for a beer…
Congrats on a safe passage. I agree with you, night sailing is a wonderful experience in the right conditions.
Thanks.
The right conditions make any sailing better!
Welcome to this Dutch island!
Thank you.
It is very different to the other places we have visited. We have had a great time exploring!
Great catch Martin!
I wonder about the little birds at sea. Quite amazing really.
The sky at night away from the lights of civilisation is amazing. The clearest sky I’ve seen was in the Flinders Ranges in South Australia.
I’d love to see the bioluminescence …when you are on shore it is about being in the right place at the right time…haven’t managed that yet!
Hi,
Yes I agree…. how far must they fly under their own steam and how do they know where to go next!
Loving reading about your travels …
xx
Caron, you almost make sailing on a boat pleasant!! Glad you made it safely, enjoy your next adventure!
Hi,
Thanks. I am getting you prepared for joint us when we get to Australia!! Hope to be there in 2024.
Hope things are good with you guys
xx
WHEN you finish your world sailing you must write a book. Really enjoy reading your adventures. What a welcome with the dolphins. Love them!
Hi
Great to hear from you. Hope you are both well. Did you buy another boat?
So pleased that you are enjoying reading about our travels. We certainly have made some exciting memories. Hopefully with more to follow.
Great catch there Martin.
Thanks,
It was very tasty! The fishing still seems a little hit and miss, but the occasional catch is better Han none at all.
Hope all is well with you guys
Xx