After the giving and receiving of gifts, we had the opportunity to have a tour around Port Resolution. Our guide walked us through village and the surrounding area, showing us the sections belonging to different family groups. Each section was a mini community with numerous small dwellings huddled together with around a shared cooking area. We were in awe of the evidence of the rebuilding of homes after the recent cyclones. A true community spirit.

Before…

After…

We were also struck by the simplicity of life in the village and the apparent contentment of a life without the trappings of the modern world.

Tending the fire
Quick snack
Running water
Simple schooling
Hard carved canoe

The major highlight of our time on Tanna was a visit to Mount Yasur, a live Volcano which has remained at Volcanic Alert Level 2 since October 2016.

It was a bit of an expedition to get there and we set off in open backed trucks along rutted, dirt tracks through forest and across streams.

Ready to go...
... dirt roading

After an hour, we arrived in a small clearing in the rainforest. Here we were treated to a traditional welcome with dancing and food; all set with the backdrop of the rumbling and smoking Mount Yasur.

Welcome
What a backdrop!

Back into the trucks and more dirt road tracks to a  barren parking area part way up the volcano. From here it was a 20 minute walk up the volcano side, heading towards the smoking crater. We arrived at the edge of the crater  just before the sun was starting to set. For the next 30 minutes, we were treated to the awesome sight of the crater 300m straight down below us; the roar, the sparks and the spurting of molten lava. This was all done perched on the edge –  no safety barriers here. One slip and there would be no coming back!

Prize winning vegetables

LeavingTanna, we sailed north to the next island, Erromango. Here we stopped at Dillon’s Bay and were greeted by David on his canoe. David, who runs the local yacht club, invited us, and the other boats in the bay to a village tour and feast.

As in Port Resolution, it was once again so moving to see the devastation that had been caused by the cyclones and the resilience of the people. Everywhere we looked there was evidence of the village life being rebuilt. This was not only housing, but also the replanting of fruit and vegetables, all of which had been swept away by a 4m river flood. It was still too early for fruit trees to bare fruit, but we saw some truly amazing allotments.

Village view

Welcoming visitors and gaining some income from village tours and feasts all helps to bring in a little money for provisions that they cannot grow. But money is tight and often the supply ship is unable to visit the island. All gifts are greatly received, but, yet again, the villagers were not accepting charity. Guitar strings and and batteries were exchanged for coconuts and jerry cans of diesel for lettuce and cabbage.

In the evening, we returned ashore for a truly wonderful feast hosted in the yacht club. Every lady in the village had prepared a delicious plate of food and, once put together, this made a banquet. Never people to miss an opportunity to party, the entertainment was, as usual, dancing and singing. It was quite surreal to be on a remote island in the Pacific joining in with “She’ll be coming round the Mountain”.  It must have been one of their favourites as it was played at least a dozen times!

Leaving Eramango, we headed further north to the capital of Vanuatu – Port Vila on Efate. This was only 80nm away, but, as in many countries we have visited in the Pacific, it was a world of difference from the other islands we had recent visited.There were busy roads crowded with cars, buses and lorries and the shelves in the Supermarkets were bursting with all of the things that the villagers needed, but are unable to afford or access.

Joining with the fleet again, there was time for a few touristy excursions, including a swim in a waterfall and a boys’ trip off roading.

Definitely dirt roading

And of course, no ARC get together would be complete with an evening of food and drink. This time accompanied by a beach side fire show complete with whirling twirling batons, flaming hula hoops, fire eating and human Catherine wheels.

Human Catherine wheel
Playing with fire

All too soon, it was time to set off again; this time on our last leg to Mackay, Australia. Before leaving Vanuatu, there was a final farewell meal to say goodbye to yet more boats. These were heading elsewhere – New Zealand, New Caledonia and Brisbane.

Many thanks for Yachting World Marina for hosting our time in Port Vila.

ARC Fleet in Yachting World Marina (Thanks Elsie 1 for photo)
Vanuatu farewell