Island hopping complete for a while, it was time to spend a few days at Coral Sea Marina, Airlie Beach to re-provision, do the laundry and catch up with rally friends on Mary Doll and Manuia.

Fully stocked and excited to explore new territories, we left Airlie Beach on Monday 3rd June 2024 and headed north. We were on route to Thursday Island to join the Wonderful Sail 2 Indonesia Rally. We had 700nm to travel before the end of June, so we planned our route to have 24 hour sails with short stops in between.

Heading first to Magnetic Island, the lighter winds of Force 2 (4-6 knots) from the east meant goosewing sails with a prevented main and poled out genoa. Escapade managed to complete the 140nm in 24 hours.

Convoy continues
Just relaxing

Anchoring in Horseshoe Bay, we had the perfect place to explore some of the island. Taking the dinghy to the beach, we walked through the bush to the Fort Walk. Here we had glimpses of the amazing coastline, remains of World War 2 defence fortifications and, best of all, sleepy koalas chilling in the eucalypt and acacia.

Another stunning view

From Magnetic Island, it was a slightly longer passage up to Cairns. Mixed wind from Force 2 (4-6 knots) to Force 4 (11-16 knots) meant we were kept busy with regular sail changes: motoring, motor sail and sailing! Boat speeds varied  between 5 and 8 knots and it took us 27 hours to complete 158nm.

A benefit of night sailing

We knew that Cairns would be our last major stop in Australia, so we took the opportunity to stock up the stores, both food and boat spares. Car hire was essential for running about town, especially to visit all of the hardware stores and chandleries.

Not having been to Cairns before, we also used the car to tour the sights. Our first day  trip was driving around the Atherton Tablelands. South of Cairns, this area is a fertile region of rainforest, wetland and savannah.  Over 2000 farms grow tropical fruit of all kinds and, hidden in the rainforest, are many spectacular waterfalls.

Cold shower anyone?

Our favourite fall was Millaa Millaa Falls where the water creates a curtain falling vertically 18m into the large, clear pool below. It is very photogenic and has been used in many advertising campaigns, including (for those of you who are old enough to remember) Timotei shampoo.

Another watery stop was at Babinda Boulders and Devil’s Pool. Here there is a pleasant walk beside the creek where large granite boulders create chutes and deep pools. The water is clear and invites you to jump in but, beware, the strong currents make it treacherous and many people have drowned here.

Beautiful dangers
Swimmer beware!
Mathematical view

Part of our route took us past Walsh’s Pyramid which, at 922m tall, is the highest, freestanding, natural pyramid in the world. With its almost perfectly straight sides, it is hard to comprehend that it is not man made.

Another quick stop was to see the famous Curtain Fig Tree. This is 50m tall with a circumference of 39m and is estimated to be over 500 years old.  That alone would be impressive, however its claim to fame are the extensive roots dropping 15m to the forest floor.

Natural curtain
View to the sea

Our second day trip was spent driving north up to Daintree Rainforest. At 1,200 square km, it is the largest in Australia and is home to many animals and plant species not found anywhere else in the world. It is over 135 million years old making it the oldest rainforest in the world.

Taking the short five minute ride on the Daintree River Car Ferry, we continued to Cape Tribulation where you can step straight from the rainforest onto the beach. This wild, but beautiful beach is not as serene as it seems.  Swimming here is not recommend due to the presence of saltwater crocodiles. Another way to die!

Cape Tribulation
All aboard

Both of our road trips were amazing, but, for me, our best day trip was the train ride to Kuranda, followed by the Skyrail back

Kuranda Scenic Railway winds its way 37km (23miles) from Cairns to Kuranda, rising from sea level to 327m.  Travelling through North Queensland’s Wet Tropics it has 15 tunnels and 37 bridges and passing many hidden waterfalls. The most impressive is the spectacular Barron Gorge Falls. A definite photo opportunity not to be missed.

At the end of the journey, we arrived at Kuranda Station. With its world heritage listed buildings and platforms adorned with tropical plants, it is probably one of the most photographed stations in the world.

End of the line
Perfect ending

After a wander around Kuranda and its craft markets, a tasty lunch and a quick beer, the return journey to Cairns was by Skyrail. The stunning aerial views were an amazing way to finish the day.