After three days at Waisai, we were all stocked up again and we started our journey west.
The first passage was only 30nm, but the very light winds meant we had to motor the whole way. It was a good job that we had refuelled in Waisai. We arrived at Pulau Dayan at Batanta just before sunset, and as soon as we were safely anchored, we headed ashore to visit Konstantinus at Dayan Homestay. We had been recommended this small homestay as an excellent place to spend the evening. Konstantinus welcomed us warmly showing us the beachside bungalows and the over the water eating area. Here, we joined the other guests for a simple home cooked meal of freshly caught fish, vegetables and fruit from the garden and a big bowl of rice. All washed down with home-made fruit juice. The evening was rounded off with Konstantinus and friends singing and playing for us. What a great night.
The following day we continued west. The 10 knot winds were from the SE and this, along with two knots of current, meant a quicker passage and great sail of 46nm to Deer Island at Kofiau.
As soon as we arrived, we were visited by two young boys asking for books for school. Not wanting to encourage a ‘something for nothing’ attitude we exchanged books, pens and tennis balls for a quick tune on the ukulele.
A short walk ashore gave us the chance to check out the small fishing village. The residents were so welcoming and we felt like the pied piper with many children following us.
Moving on again, we motor sailed 30nm to neighbouring Boo Islands. These islands are uninhabited low lying islands surrounded by shallow reefs. We had super snorkelling and diving right off the back of the boat.
This was also the perfect place to refill our gas bottle…Indonesian style!
Continuing west, we left Raja Ampat and entered the Maluku Islands. The south easterly winds were no longer blocked by the islands, and we had winds of Force 4 and 5 (11-21 knots) gusting Force 7 (28-33 knots). Escapde was flying with speeds of up to 8 knots. We even had to reef the sails at one point; something that we have not had to do for a while.
At Buru, we stopped in the small town of Namlea. Our guide here was Fadhel and, on our first day, we made a trip to the market to re-provision.
On our second day Fadhel was so proud to show us his island home. He guided us around the town and also took us on an island tour. As usual there was a waterfall to swim at, but we also had a glimpse into two of the small industries on the island. The first was a coconut farm where the discarded shells are burnt to create BBQ charcoal. The second was a eucalyptus still used for making oil. All very interesting.
A fascinating day was rounded off with a meal at Fadhel´s uncle’s restaurant.
Our stay in Namlea coincided with the start of the Independence Day celebrations. This national holiday commemorates the anniversary of Indonesia´s independence in 1945 from 350 years of Dutch rule. It is a very important celebration and all over Indonesia there is flag flying, marching and lots of parades. We were lucky enough to see one of the pre-Independence Day parades. So many young people proudly marching through the town, being cheered on by crowds of family and friends. The marches in Namlea are part of a competition and the youngsters spend many hours practising their routines to ensure that they are in sync.
Watching the parade and walking through town, it very quickly became clear that not many tourists visit Namlea. Before we knew what was happening, attention was diverted from the marchers to us. Everywhere we went there were shouts of ´mister, mister, selfie, photo´. We even had mothers handing over their babies for us to hold in the photo.
From Namlea, we sailed to Wanci on Wangi Wangi in Wakatobi. This was a longer passage with stronger winds and bigger seas. We had a passage of 290 nm with winds of Force 6 (22-27 knots) and seas with a shortwave period making the water choppy and the boat roll. This, along with the many fishing boats and fads, meant we were very glad to arrive.
Wanci was another small town and, once again, we had a superb guide here. Aries works for the tourist office and was able to help with anything and everything. We also met young students practising their English who act as guides, showing us the town and the island for free in exchange for the chance to practise their English. We had a great two days with Regita and Alya who took us on an island tour by scooter.
A stop at the historic Liya Togo Fort. Made of coral reef and stuck together with egg whites and lime dough, it is supposed to be the burial ground of a famous warrior, Talo-talo. It also houses Mubarak Mosque, one of Wakatobi´s most famous mosques.
Another stop was Mola, a stilted fishing village and home of the Bajo tribe. We walked through the village and were able to view the traditional lifestyle that the villagers still follow.
Wangi Wangi has many beautiful beaches. We particularly enjoyed visiting Moli’i Sahatu Beach with its impressive rock formations.
After a hot day on the scooters, what better than a refreshing swim in Kontamale Cave and more photos!
While at Wanci, it was Indpendence Day itself and the visitors were asked to be a part of the procession. We rented costumes and, much to the delight of the people of the town joined the parade. So many smiling faces and yet more photos!
Very interesting ports of call!
We found the eastern end of Indonesian fascinating. We loved visiting the lesser known areas and meeting the wonderful people who were so proud to share their lives with us.
Wow, what an amazing experience 🤩😍
It certainly was! I think, very different from your Indonesian travels. We are looking forward to sharing stories with you when we see you very soon!