After a few days rest and relaxation at Direction Island, Cocos Keeling, the time came for us to set off on our second longest ever passage. This would be 2350nm across the Indian Ocean to Mauritius. The journey would take anywhere between 2 and 3 weeks depending on the wind and weather conditions.
On Monday 7th October 2024, the sun shone brightly as the fleet set off on Leg 11. The boats quickly spread out, each skipper having his/her preferred route. By nightfall, the boats were several miles apart and we could not see anyone else. It would be a long and lonely trip!
Our passage started well with ESE winds of between Force 4 (11-16 knots) and Force 6 (22-27 knots). Due to the passage direction, this wind was from behind us, so we set up a downwind sail plan with goosewing prevented main and poled out genoa. Escapade made super speeds of 6-8 knots.
As with other passages in the Indian Ocean, the seas had a 2-3m swell. Fortunately, there was a longer period between the peaks, meaning it was more of a roll than a chop. It was only the occasional 4m side slap that kept us on our toes.
Being part of the rally is great for helping us stay in touch with other boats. We all have a YB tracking device which pings daily position reports. There are several Whats App groups allowing us to share passage and weather information. We also have a quiz group to keep our brains ticking over. And, of course, we have the daily SSB radio net.
Our communications also allow for help and advice on fixing things, as, on boats, something always needs fixing. This passage was not without breakages: the steering ram needed replacing, the TV aerial fell off the top of the mast and Martin had a crown come off one of his teeth. All were added to the maintenance list.
The end of day 7 saw us in the middle of the Indian Ocean, miles away from land. But we were not alone. It was surprising to be surrounded by a huge expanse of sea and still have a tanker pass within one mile of us.
The good winds continued and so did the excellent sailing. In fact, the conditions were so favourable that we managed to sail the whole way to Mauritius: 2348nm in 15 days, 2 hours.
We finally entered into Le Caudin Basin, Port Louis, Mauritius to a massive welcome from the other boats and our rally family, After checking out our welcome pack (rum, tea and a dodo), it was time for a few beers and sharing of stories, followed by a good night’s sleep.
The next day, the priority was to get started on the job list. Repairs to our spare steering ram and steering quadrant, included some stainless work by local firm, Integrity.
Followed by the fitting of a new shore power socket, replacing the old one which had melted.
Last but not least, it was up the mast for a rig check.
Jobs complete, we were keen to head further afield. We hired a car and headed inland where we discovered the Sacred Lake at Grand Bassin. This is a place of prayer and relaxation, full of small Hindu temples and statues of Gods. Families visit here to light incense sticks and to make offerings of fruit and vegetables. Visitors are welcomed by imposing statues of Lord Shiva and Lord Durga.
Another tourist attraction we discovered was the seven coloured earth of Charmel. This was an interesting geographical feature comprising of an area of basalt formed from exploding lava. Over time the basalt has been subject to oxidation and the resulting iron and aluminium stains it in rusty hues. the is no real explanation as to why there is the colour range, although one theory is that it is linked to the cooling rates of the original lava.
As usual, when we visit new places, the World Cruising Club had organised an excursion.
First stop was Mauritius National Botanical Gardens. Unfortunately, this the best we have seen being more like a large park than a collection of exotic plants. it still made for a pleasant walk past the large expanses of grass, numerous trees and several small lakes.
Next stop was L´Aventure du Sucre. Housed in a renovated sugar mill, it was crammed full of information about the sugar cane industry. This industry has been a central pillar of the Mauritian economy for two centuries, producing not only sugar, but also rum, bio-fertilisers, green energy and animal feed. A very versatile product.
Finally, we visited Chateau de Labourdonnais. Not actually a castle, but a grand plantation house. It was built in 1856 and inhabited by a Mauritian family for over 150 years. With its long tree lined avenue leading up to pond with fountains, it was an impressive site.
Amazing photos and you did the journey in 15 days, that is impressive. Hope Martin got the tooth sorted too xx
Glad you have arrived safely after the long crossing. Worried about you with the cyclone in the region but you have probably moved on from there in real time?