World ARC 2024-2025: Leg 15 - South Africa to Brazil

Boat checks complete, cupboards restocked, fruit net full, we were ready to go. On Saturday 11^thJanuary 2025, we slipped our lines and headed out of the marina ready to start leg 15. As we motored past the open bascule bridge to head for the start line, it became apparent that there was a problem with the engine: no power. Turning around, we re-entered the marina to check it out. After several hours of testing and head scratching, Martin realised that the fuel filter had been turned off when the engineers had carried out the belt change. Relieved that it was only a minor issue and easily resolved, we set off only a few hours behind the rest of the fleet.

Namibia was not a country that we knew much about, so we didn’t really know what to expect. Our destination was Walvis Bay, the second largest city in Namibia and, arriving in the dark, we dropped anchor in what seemed to be a quite industrial and busy port. The next morning, we moved around to the ´marina´. It turned out to be more of a pontoon which was a long walk from anywhere. We weren’t at all sure about our time here.

However, over the next few days, we warmed to Walvis Bay. Just along from the pontoon was a row of simple restaurants, bars and gift shops. This was also where we were welcomed by the local yacht club. As usual with these smaller clubs, the members and staff were super helpful and keen to help us explore the area.

The main tourist attraction here is the Namib Desert. This is a huge desert stretching more than 2000km (1200miles) along the Atlantic coastline and there are many ways to explore it. We had been recommended to join an historic quad bike tour with Kuiseb Delta Adventures. Our guide, Fanie, has been carrying out these tours for many years and the whole experience was fascinating.  We learned about the area, the way the dunes are formed and ´move´ and the people who used to live there. The seemingly barren environment was home to many creatures and Fanie was able to share this with us. He showed us animal and human footprints in the dried river bed from 2000 years ago and human remains, beads and pots in the burial areas. We came away with a much greater understanding of life in the dunes and had fun driving up and down the dunes too.

Armed with our new found knowledge, we took a 4×4 tour to Sandwich Harbour. The 60km trip took us into the Namib Naukluft Park, home to some of the world´s highest dunes. Sand stretched as far as the eye could see in all directions and we had spectacular views of the magnificent dunes running alongside the Atlantic Ocean.

Situated almost in the centre of the Atlantic Ocean, St Helena is a British Overseas Territory. It is a small island of 16×8 km (10x5miles) with a population of about 4500.  At first sight, it seems like a typical volcanic island with rugged and barren cliffs, but, as we were to discover, the interior had lush, green, grassy slopes and large wooded areas.

The only anchorage at St Helena is off the main town of Jamestown. So we dropped the hook and called up the water ferry to take us ashore. First stop was customs and immigration to complete the necessary paperwork to check in and then it was off to explore.

We visited High Knoll Fort. This deserted fort is the largest and most complete on the island. Perched on the hilltop 600 m above sea level, it has stunning views across the island to the ocean.

Another stop was at the Boer cemetery. This was the final resting place for prisoners who died on the island during the Anglo Boer War in South Africa.

One of St Helena´s most famous landmarks is Jacob´s Ladder. This steep set of stairs is the remains of a cable railway built in early 1800. The 699 steps seem to be almost vertical and it is a long climb. A plaque at its base lists the record ascent of 4 minutes,40.75 seconds. There was no risk of us breaking this as our ascent took a mammoth 19 minutes with plenty of rests on the way up.

No trip to St Helena would be complete without learning more about its two famous residents. A visit to Plantation House enabled us to see Jonathan, a giant tortoise. He is reportedly 192 years old, making him the oldest known living land animal. The house and grounds were closed on the day of our visit, but we spotted him from a far as he meandered slowly across the spacious lawns.

The second famous resident (or more accurately ex-resident) was Napoleon.  St Helena was the site of his second and longest period of exile. He spent 6 years on the island between his final defeat in June 1815 and his death in 1821.

Whilst on the island, Napoleon and his entourage were based at Longwood House. We visited there and also the place that he was originally buried. Interestingly Napoleon´s remains are no longer here as they were exhumed and re buried in France. Also interesting is that both the tomb and the house are owned by the French government. A tiny part of France in a British territory.

Initially, we made good speed (up to 7 knots), in winds of Force 4 (11-16 knots). They were from behind, so we set the sails goosewing with the main on the preventer and the genoa poled out. Unfortunately, after a few days, the winds dropped to Force 3 (7-10 knots). We still sailed goosewing, but the lighter winds meant slower speeds (3-4 knots). Unable to motor as we needed to watch the diesel levels, Brazil seemed a very long way off.

Approaching Brazil, the wind died away and it was on with the engine.

Finally, after a passage of 1805nm in 14 days,  we arrived in Recife. It felt good to get there.