After one week in Labuan Bajo, treating ourselves to coffee, cake and cocktails, we continued our journey west, leaving Flores behind and heading for Sumbawa and then Lombok. Once again, we split the passage into day hops to avoid problems with unlit fishing boats and FADS (fish attraction devices).

Our first day was a gentle sail of 28nm with winds of Force 4 (11-16 knots). Six hours sailing and we dropped the anchor in Teluk Batu Monco, a deserted bay at the northern end of Komodo Island.

Buddy boat Tam Lin

After a relaxing night´s sleep, we had a jump of 33nm to Teluk Labujoro on Sangang Island, off the north east coast of Sumbawa. Another good day sail with SE winds of force 4 (11-16 knots).

Anchoring up alongside three other boats, we were quickly visited by two young boys in their small dugout canoe. They spoke no English, but made it clear that they were wanting books for school. We negotiated books for mangoes and off they went. Soon they returned with a bag of very small, under ripe mangoes. No good for eating, but at least they had tried. It was lovely to see their excitement to receive books, crayons and tennis balls.

It was here that we saw a large Noah´s Ark like boat on the beach. A trip ashore and we discovered that the boat build has been in progress for two years, but still is nowhere near complete. A small settlement has grown up alongside the build to house the workers and the ladies of the village enhance their incomes by weaving blankets and rugs.

Have you seen Noah?

Moving on from Sangang, our next stop was Kilo, again in northern Sumbawa.  The good winds continued and we completed our 38nm in 8 hours.

Kilo is a very small fishing village, but it has become a popular stopping point for yachts travelling along the coast. The villagers have become used to hand outs from visitors and, before we had even dropped the anchor, the water around us was full of small wooden canoes, crowded with families asking for gifts. No one here was interested in exchanging; some were willing to sell us fruit, but most wanted something for nothing. This does not sit easy for us as it sets a precedent for future visitors here. We eventually managed to negotiate buying mangoes and tomatoes.

The next day the wind was lighter Force 3 (7-10 knots), so it was a day of motor sailing the 44nm to Kananga, Sumbawa

Indonesia is one of the most volcanically active regions on earth. It makes up the south west region of the Pacific ´ring of fire´and has 130 volcanoes. Many of these are dormant,  but 80 are still active. Many of the islands we sailed past were volcanic,, but one we visited was the island of Satonda. Here, the now inactive volcano forms the whole island and the caldera in the centre houses a large lake. Perfect for a quick swim on a hot day.

Volcanic Island of Sangang
Crater swimming

Our next passage was shorter – only 21nm to the island of Moyo. The winds were still light, so it was a motor sail of four hours.

We at Moyo for a couple of nights, catching up for sundowners with rally friends, diving a nearby reef and, of course, walking to another waterfall.

Time to move on again and our next passage was 51nm to Peluan on the north east of Lombok. The winds had returned to Force 4 and we were able to sail the whole way. A longer day of 11 hours, arriving at dusk. We were pleased not to be staying here long. The anchorage was very rolly and it made for an unsettled night.

Dramatic coastline of northern Lombok

Our last passage was only 35nm and we were hoping to arrive at our destination in six hours. Unfortunately, as is often the case, the weather gods turned against us at the end of the journey. 10nm miles from our destination, the wind picked up to Force 6 (22-27 knots), but also changed direction to north westerly. This meant we were trying to sail directly into wind with a higher sea state.  We ended up tacking backwards and forwards, making slow progress. Taking us an extra two and a half hours, the end was in sight for a long time.

Medana Bay Marina on north west Lombok was to be our last stop in Indonesia as here we would join the World Cruising Club Rally back to the Caribbean.

Rally boats gathering