Leaving Dockside Marina, Brisbane, we motored down the Brisbane River and into Moreton Bay. After 6 hours motoring into wind, we had travelled the 25nm across the bay and dropped anchor for the night in Lucinda Bay, Moreton Island. We had a leisurely day preparing for our next passage and, at 4pm, with a favourable tide, we set off. Being uncertain about the depths between North Stradbroke Island and the mainland, and also the height of some overhead cables, we had chosen to head around Moreton Island and then south. This added about 50nm (approximately 10 hours) on to our journey, but that was better than hitting electric cables!
A NNE wind of Force 4 (11-16 knots) meant a great sail and 26 hours (135nm) later we arrived at the Gold Coast. Unfortunately, it was not looking so ‘gold’ when we first saw it.
We took the passage below South Stradbroke Island and made our up the Coomera River to Gold Coast City Marina.
We stayed in the marina here for 3 days, checking out the facilities and organising Escapade’s haul out for our return visit in 2024. Then, it was back down the river, out though the channel and turn south again. A Force 3 (7-10 knots) wind from the north west gave us a great downwind sail. We poled out the genoa and arrived at Yamba bar 26 hours (110nm) later.
Here we had another bar crossing and a winding track through the shallows to Yamba Marina where we planned to stay for a week to explore the area.
The marina was perfectly placed and a gentle stroll along the river took us to the beautiful beaches and the nearby town. We weren’t really sure what to expect from Yamba, but we loved it. The town had a really welcoming vibe about it, almost homely. It was quite small but perfectly formed and, with its own high street brewery, what’s not to like?
The other way along the river from the marina was the Fishermen’s Co-operative. An excellent place to buy locally caught fish and seafood. It was here that we tried Balmain Bay bugs for the first time. Tastewise they were between crab and lobster. They are quite small; only a mouthful, but lighly cooked in garlic butter, they were delicious.
Also near the marina, we were able to take the ferry across the river to Iluka. This was no more than a handful of houses with a few small shops, but it boasted a great rainforest walk. Not like the lush, green rainforests of the Caribbean, but it was still stunning to walk through the towering trees. The trail took us to the Iluka Bluff, a desolate coast line with crashing waves.
Another of our days was spent on a bus trip to neighbouring Maclean. This town boasts the title of “the Scottish Town in Australia’. Of course, it looks nothing like a Scottish town, but many of the original settlers here were from Scotland and it was named after Scot Alexander Grant McLean. Everywhere we looked there was evidence of the links to Scotland. There are over 200 tartan telegraph poles, bagpie music and you can even buy haggis sausages.
To learn more of the town’s history, we walked the heritage trail. It was interesting to learn about the town’s origins from the buildings that we saw, especially the different theologies of the early settlers represented by the numerous churches.
All that walking built up quite a thirst, so a lunch stop Sanctus Brewery was in order. Ribs, cold beer and Christmas decorations Australian style.
Leaving Escapade safely tucked up in the marina, we hired a car and took a road trip north to Ballina to stay with some of our friends from the rally.
It goes without saying that we had a brilliant weekend. Not only did we get to sleep in a land based bed for the first time in 18 months, but we were treated to some real aussie experiences: An afternoon on the bowling green, followed by the pub and a few bets on the horse racing. Rounded off with the snags (sausages) on the barbie and several cold tinnies. Bonzer!!
Before leaving Ballina, we stopped by the Big Prawn. This is one of several ´big´ items on the east coast and is there in recognition of the local prawning industry.
Then we took the inland route back to Yamba. This took us through rolling hills and farm land with the mountains in the distance. A drive through Grafton and a quick lunch at Ulmarra riverside pub completed our trip.
All too soon, it was time to leave Yamba. We were didn’t really want to leave, but made a promise to revisit on our way back in 2024.
The next week was spent heading south in shortish sails whenever the wind was favourable and heading into anchor when it was not. Our stops were…
Port Macquarie: 130nm (23 hours)
Port Stephen: 100nm (24 hours)
Pittwater: 76nm (17 hours)
We stopped in Pittwater for a few nights, catching up with more rally friends while waiting for the wind again!
Eventually, we set off for our last push to Sydney.
A mixed journey of variable light winds meaning mainly motor sailing. Finally, we completed the last 25nm and rounded North Heads to enter Port Jackson and the iconic Sydney Harbour.
Congratulations on reaching Sydney. Epic journey and sounds like you are having a ball.
Thank you! We have come a long way. Not just in physical miles, but also in sailing knowledge!!
The photos are stunning. So much to read its amazing. Favourite photo being Scottish, is the bagpie picture. Alexander MacLean was known as Alister and christened in Inverness. Thats the little bit I know. Happy sailing xx
Excellent review and descriptions Caron but what do Bagpies actually sound like, made it to Sydney what’s next?
Thanks!
Bagpipes are one of those instruments that can be played badly and sound like a lot of grunting and wailing!
Had four weeks in Sydney – James came over to see us there. now we are heading north again towards Gold Coast where we are booked in a marina for boat work and a trip to New Zealand.
Hope you are both well and surviving the storms xx
Interesting! It was a great little town. They even have an annual Highland games.
Lots of beautiful areas along the NsW coast and hinterland to see. The protected rainforest areas are further inland in the National Parks along the Great Dividing Range. Of course the NE coastal areas were heavily logged by the colonists and its been a fight to protect native forests all over Australia.
As with many places the world over!
Thank you for sharing. it is also interesting to learn more about the places we visit.